THE ROGERS PARK GARDEN GROUP

MIDFEX:  MIDWEST FRUIT EXPLORERS
WHAT DOES "DWARF TREE" MEAN?

Many mail order catalogs and local nurseries sell fruit trees that are labeled as "dwarf," but sometimes beginners in fruit growing are disappointed and inconvenienced when their so-called dwarf apple tree grows two stories high, after first taking 8 or 10 years to begin bearing fruit.  Besides the possibility that someone simply made an error in labeling, there are two reasons why this might happen.

 The first possible reason in that when the tree was planted, it may have been done in such a way that the graft union was set too close to the soil line, or even below it.  When this is done, the scion, the part above the union, will sooner or later send down roots of its own.  Remember that a dwarf fruit tree is created by grafting the desired variety onto a dwarfing rootstock; each variety, however, still has all the genes to make its own vigorous roots if given the opportunity, and these vigorous roots, once they establish themselves in the ground, will override the roots of the dwarfing stock and (in the case of apple and pear) go on to produce a standard tree, 20 feet high and nearly as wide across, the kind that the kids can use for a tree house, and which will produce many bushels of fruit.  Most homeowners, though, consider this too much of a good thing.

 The second possible reason is that there is no real definition of "dwarf."  The seller was not deliberately misleading; it's just that a "dwarf tree" is any tree that is smaller than standard -- maybe just 17 feet tall when mature instead of 20.  Trees of this size should more accurately be called "semi-dwarf" or even "semi-standard."  They are quite suitable for the commercial orchardist who wants a compromise between maximum yield per acre and the easier pruning, spraying, and picking of a tree that is only 2/3 or ¾ as big as a standard tree, but for the backyard hobbyist, a fully dwarfed tree, one which is mature at 5 to 10 feet, is generally the most desirable.  There are different rootstocks available for producing different-size trees according to the needs of the grower, although it should be noted that it is only in the case of apples that there is the fullest range of dwarfing rootstocks.

WHY ARE FRUIT TREES GRAFTED?

The most important reason is because this is a sure way to propagate the variety we want from tree to tree.   If you were to eat a piece of fruit, a Bartlett pear, let's say, and plant the seeds from it, each seed would grow into a pear tree as expected, and each tree would eventually bloom and produce pears.  But just as ten daughters can all be quite different from their mother, each daughter tree would bear pears that have only a family resemblance to the Bartlett pear you ate, and to the other trees' pears as well.  Each daughter tree may even have growth habit or bark color different from its mother and its sisters.  In order to be sure of having real Bartlett pears, a clone must be made; we must take a piece of a Bartlett tree (this piece is called a "scion") and graft it onto some other pear tree, where it will "do its own thing" and produce Bartlett pears.  Nearly all woody plants of  named varieties (Elberta peach, Peace rose) are propagated in this way, not by seeds.

 Most people know that one can graft scions of 5 different varieties onto 5 different branches of an existing tree of the same species (apple on apple, pear on pear, etc.), thus making a 5-in-1 curiosity, but generally, and always in commercial orchards, each tree is of a single variety, the scion having been grafted onto the lowest few inches of the trunk of a one-year-old tree of the same species, just above the roots.  This baby tree of pencil diameter, which receives the scion and has its top cut off and discarded, is called a rootstock, and it and the scion remain together all their lives.  (Of course, it is also possible to make a clone by taking cuttings of the desired variety and inducing them to form their own roots, but with fruit trees this is a lengthy process, and even then the percentage of successes is not high.  Moreover, rootstocks can be chosen that are able to confer advantages to the final tree, as we will explain later.)

 The scion, as we said, is a piece of the variety whose fruit we want.  What is a rootstock?  An apple rootstalk, for example, is simply another variety of apple tree, the variety often indicated by a code like M-26 or P-22, which originally grew from a seed somewhere, was found to have something desirable as far as its roots were concerned, and is now itself propagated by a specialized nursery.  This tree is entirely capable of living on its own; if nothing were ever grafted onto it, it would grow into an apple tree, bloom, and bear apples, although there is little chance that its apples would be of very good quality.  But we are not interested in its more or less inferior fruit; we choose a particular variety of rootstock only for its roots, which have one or more attributes that the roots of the scion variety may lack, such as disease resistance, ability to tolerate certain adverse soil or climate conditions, or tendency to cause the resulting grafted tree to mature sooner and be smaller and earlier-bearing than standard trees (dwarfing rootstock).  Thus we want the rootstock only for what its roots can do, and the scion only for the fruit that its branches and leaves will produce.  When the two are joined, we have a tree more desirable for our needs than either would be if growing on its own.

PLANTS FOR KITCHEN GARDENS

Rhubarb

Undemanding -- requires essentially no care at all, needs watering only in the very driest of weeks.  Is at its best when in sun, but even in mostly shade it is reasonably productive.  A perennial that dies to the ground in the winter and comes back in spring.  The leaf stalks (petioles) are broken off from the base of the plant, the leaves themselves are discarded, and the petioles are cut up and used in sauces, breads, jams, pies.

 Other values:  showy flowers (although petiole production is better if flowers are removed), use as a ground cover.

 Suggested varieties:  If in the foreground, use the red-stemmed varieties such as Valentine.  Otherwise they are all the same for productiveness, flavor, and flowers.

 Where and how to plant:  At its best when in sun, but even in mostly shade it is reasonably productive.  Plant in good or even not-so-good soil, 2 to 3 feet apart.
Elderberry

A shrub which takes care of itself, usually bearing when only 2 years old, eventually reaching the height and spread of a large lilac bush if not pruned (by cutting off the oldest canes at the ground in spring).  Can be kept as an informal individual or allowed to form into an irregular clone from the base.  The berries are unimpressive if eaten fresh, but make an excellent jelly with a flavor between blackberry and Concord grape.  You do have to protect the berries from birds.
 

Other values:  showy flowers, attractive foliage, use as a head-high ground cover for the edges of woody and uncultivated places, provide nesting sites and food for birds.

Suggested varieties:  Nurseries offer Nova, York, Johns, etc.  My experience is with the wild plants which arise from seeds dropped by birds along fencerows and transitional areas, and these have given me very satisfactory crops.  For pollination two different named varieties or two wild seedlings or one of each is required.

 Where and how to plant:  Anywhere but complete shade.  Will even tolerate competition from tree roots.

Raspberry

Stay with the red raspberry (which includes gold); the black are not reliably hardy here.  Not at all difficult to care for, just so you understand the system of pruning each type needs (see below), and do it at the right time.  Self-pollinating.  No pest in the usual sense, but when the crop is ripening, it often needs protection from birds, and in some years, yellow-jackets and Japanese beetles.  The fruit itself needs no introduction.

 Other values:  The neighbors will grow tired of all your tomatoes and zucchini, but They never get enough raspberries (not that you do either).

 Suggested varieties:  Maincrop*: Latham, Canby, Titan; Doublebearer#: Heritage, Autumn Bliss.

 Where and how to plant:  In sun.  When first planting, put them 2 feet apart.  After that they form runners and always seem to end up as a hedgerow anyway, which should be kept no more than 3 feet wide.  But even a single plant is worthwhile.
Principles of Pruning Red Raspberries 

Maincrop*:  Sends up new canes from the ground in the spring.  These canes do not bloom this first year.  In early summer of the second year they will bloom and bear, then die.  Meanwhile during the second year, new canes are arising from the ground to carry the third year's crop.  That is, it is always last year's canes that have the fruit, and each cane lives exactly 2 years.  So the only pruning needed is a one-time removal of the dead canes after their summer harvest is over and they are turning brown.  It is also OK to cut the tops of the growing canes to 5 or 6 feet if they are becoming too tall and floppy.

Doublebearer#:  (Also called everbearer, but this is not really correct.)  Last year's canes bloom and bear in early summer, then die, just like the maincrop varieties.  But with this type, the new canes that have arisen this year (primocanes) bloom in their first August and bear fruit until frost.  They do not die after this.  They winter over to become the bearers of next year's crop before they die and need to be removed.  Thus, there are two crops a year.

 However, it is a common practice when growing doublebearers to forgo the early crop by cutting everything to a foot or lower sometime between November and March, and harvesting only the crops produced from the primocanes in August and September.  This is the simplest pruning there is, and gives the added advantage of allowing sun to get to adjacent areas that can be used for a spring crop of salad greens before the primocanes become tall and shade them out.

Cherry

The only cherry varieties suitable for a kitchen garden rather than an orchard are genetic dwarf tart cherries.  These are self-pollinating trees which mature at 6 to 8 feet high and about 6 feet wide.  One of these trees, if netted to protect from birds, will furnish enough fruit for several pies each season.  Also fine for all other cherry uses.

 Other values:  Very showy in spring bloom, has attractive bark, is even shapely as a formal or semi-formal landscape feature.  And if you don't get the fruit, you will be blessed with a great show of birds.

 Suggested varieties:  Northstar, Meteor. (I prefer the former for eating fresh.)
 Where and how to plant:  In sun or mostly sun.  These little trees are pretty enough to put right in front of the house.

Ribes

This is the genus of currants (both red and black), and of gooseberries.
 Gooseberry:  An underrated fruit for kitchen gardens.  These are shrubs which mature as dense 4-foot bushes, but they can be trained to a staked standard.  Very forgiving of incorrect pruning and other grower errors.  The fruit is borne in midsummer as a single crop.  You can do anything with the fruit that you can do with a tart cherry, but gooseberries have a flavor all their own.  Birds seem to leave them alone, but in certain summers the yellow-jackets will pierce the skin and suck out the juice.  Self-pollinating.

Other values:  Beautiful long-lasting autumn foliage color.

 Suggested varieties:  More varieties keep coming on the market.  I have grown Pixwell, Poorman, and Welcome.  Of the three, I like Welcome the best.  It doesn't give as many berries, but they are larger, sweeter, and more full of flavor than the other two.

Where and how to plant:  These do not need full sun; in fact, on the hottest days there can even be some sun damage to the berries, so a partially sunny location is probably best.  Whether grown bushy from the ground or as standards, 3-foot spacing is about right.

 Red Currant

 A more upright, somewhat taller, less dense shrub than gooseberry.  Self-pollinating.  The copious crop of bright read berries borne in midsummer needs to be netted to protect it from birds, but this is not a big job.  The berries are used to make a tart jelly, or a glaze for pastries and roasts, sometimes mixed with apple.

 Other values:  Attractive fall foliage, as with gooseberries.

 Suggested varieties:  Redlak, the old standby, and Cherry.  Where and how to plant:  These do need sun to have a heavy crop, but even with some shade they will still produce respectably.  Plant them about 3 feet apart.

 Black currant 

These have been made available in the U.S. only recently.  They are the cassis of France.  Growth habit like red currant.  Self-pollinating.  The berries should be left on the bush until fully ripe, black and soft, and then you'll either love their strong musky flavor or hate it. (I love it.)  I haven't explored all their uses, but anything made with peach or strawberry takes on a new and exotic flavor if 10 to 20% black currents are added.  They are also good fresh on a bowl of Wheaties.  Be the first on your block to grow these.

 Other values:  Attractive fall foliage.

 Suggested varieties:  As with gooseberries, new varieties keep coming on the market.  Try Black September or Prince Consort.

 How and where to plant:  As for red currant.

Apple

 With the introduction of the full-dwarfing rootstocks, it is now possible to have normal-sized apples of any variety on a tree which, when mature, occupies no more than a tomato plant and can be kept pruned to 5 feet tall; slightly less dwarfing rootstocks can give you your favorite varieties on 7-to-9 foot trees planted 7 or 8 feet apart.  These trees will not produce bushels of apples, but will certainly give dozens of apples if proper insect control measures are applied, and have the added advantage of often bearing as soon as three years of age.  The trees can also be trained as espaliers (not as difficult as it appears), which can beautify any wall or fence and provide a maximum of fruit in a minimum space.  An apple tree needs a pollinator of another variety, but nearby flowering crabapples will serve if you have only one fruiting tree.

 Other values:  Spring blossoms, bare trees have interesting appearance in winter, espaliers are a striking garden feature.

 Suggested varieties:  There are hundreds available.  Very good for home gardens (in order of ripening) are Mantet, Prima, Wealthy, Mutzu.  The crabapple Dolgo has especially beautiful bright red fruit, is immune to scab fungus, and makes marvelous jelly.  Choose trees grafted onto rootstocks M27 for the most dwarfing.  M26 or Bud-9 for a semi-dwarf.

 Where and how to plant:  In sun or mostly sun, but if espaliered, will bear well on an east- or west-facing wall.

Pear

 There are no rootstocks for pears which will reliably dwarf the tree as much as can be done for apples; therefore with their rather demanding pruning requirements, pear trees, unless esplaniered, are probably suitable only for larger kitchen gardens, mini-orchards, or as a small shade tree.   Some varieties of both Asian (crunchy) and European (pear-shaped) pears are partly self-pollinating, but another tree of a different variety is always advisable.  Requires less insect control than apples.

 Other values:  Shiny green foliage is attractive in summer, fall color is pretty too.  Blossoming and winter appearance as for apples.  And nothing compliments a wall or fence better than an espaliered semi-dwarf pear tree displaying its fruit. 

 Suggested varieties:  European (as with apples, there are hundreds available):  Seckel (highly recommended), Kieffer (the old reliable canning pear), Beierschmidt, Colette.  Asian (in order of ripening): Hosui, Chojuro, Kikisui.  Look for rootstalks OHxF 333 or OHxF 513, which are semi-dwarfing, not fully dwarfing, but are hardy and reliable. 
 Where and how to plant:  As for apples.

And last, but emphatically not least, here are 3 more underappreciated fruits:  Check them out. . .

1. Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.)  Usually grown just for its white spring blooms, much like a small flowering crabapple (often bushy), but the berries are juicy and splendid; they make good jam and pies, and are very tasty when dried, but there is no berry any better to pick and eat fresh.

2. Cornelian cherry (Cornus mas)  Not a cherry at all, but a species of dogwood, usually grown as a shrub or small tree only for its very early copious tiny yellow flowers and shiny dark green foliage, and the shiny red berries are admired for their appearance.  However, the berries can be made into a very tart jelly good for relish on meats, and also give a lot of added zip to peach recipes.

3. Quince.  [NOTE:  There is often confusion here.  We are talking about the true quince (Cydonia), not the flowering or Japanese quince (Chaenomeles).]  A rather ungainly small tree or large shrub, but trouble free.  The large, very pale pink blooms follow apple blossom time.  The large fruit has many uses for jelly, compote, sauce, candy, sherbet, baked like apples, and more - anything but eating out of hand.  When they ask me, What does a quince taste like?, I reply, It tastes like a quince.

SOURCES

Note: There are very many more good sources than these.  This is just a starter list.
Park Seed Co.                Jung Seed Co.
1 Parkton Ave.                335 S. High St.
Greenwood, SC 29647    Randolph, WI 53957
(800)845-3369                (800) 247-5864

Raintree Nursery             Stark Brothers
391 Butts Rd.                  P.O. Box 1800
Morton WA 98356           Louisiana MO 63353
(360)496-6400                (800) 325-4180

www.raintreenursery.com www.starbros.com

Miller Nursery                   Forestfarm
5060 W. Lake Rd.            900 Tetherow Road
Canandaigua NY 14424    Williams OR 97544
(800) 836-9630                (541) 836-7269
www.millernurseries.com/    www.forestfarm.com

Cummins Nursery
18 Glass Factory Bay Rd.
Geneva NY 14456
(315) 789-7083

The following are also often available by taking divisions of a neighbor's plant and bringing it home to transplant:  Rhubarb, elderberry, raspberry, gooseberry, currant.