All About Plants Blog

February 24th Meeting: Seed, Bulb, and Plant Sources

Mon, 02 Mar 2009 20:43:00 -0500

Many thanks to Carole Perlman, RPGG member, for providing this helpful list of sources for seeds, bulbs and plants. All of her recommendations have also been incorporated into the Garden Resources page for future reference.

Seed, Bulb, and Plant Sources

It’s worthwhile to compare prices at the different web sites. A company that has the cheapest seeds of one plant might not necessarily have the cheapest seeds of another variety. Also, take into account shipping charges, which can be substantial and often vary according to the dollar value of your order. Many websites offer periodic specials, so be on the lookout for them.

You can request paper catalogs, which can be easier to browse than the web sites.

If you’re buying perennials, remember that Chicago is in hardiness Zone 5, so make sure that you select plants that will make it through our winters, i.e., plants in Zone 5 and below. I tend to prefer companies that grow their plants in climates like ours (or worse, though that may be hard to imagine).

The comments below are based on my experiences and the opinions expressed are my own.

Happy gardening!

Carole Perlman

RPGG member

Anton’s Greenhouse	http://www.antonsgreenhouses.com/ 1126 Pitner, Evanston (a few blocks east of McCormick and south of Dempster; enter from Dempster)	Many kinds of seedlings grown in their greenhouse, good selection of roses and perennials.
Bluestone Perennials	www.bluestoneperennials.com	Many varieties of smallish perennials which are relatively inexpensive.
Burpee	http://www.burpee.com/	Sometimes a little pricey. Seeds, plants, and supplies. Good seed-starting information on the seed packets.
Fragrant Path	http://www.fragrantpathseeds.com/	Seeds and plants, including many rare and heirloom varieties, with an emphasis on (you guessed it) fragrant plants and small, inexpensive shrubs. Located in Nebraska.
Gale School	See RPGG web site for information	Seedlings grown in their greenhouse
Gethsemane	http://www.gethsemanegardens.com/ 5739 N. Clark	You’ve already been there!
Harris Seeds	www.harrisseeds.com	Particularly good selection of seed-starting paraphernalia and plant labels. They have a wider variety of vegetable seeds than flower seeds and also sell plants.
High Country Gardens	www.highcountrygardens.com	They specialize in “water thrifty” plants and have many unusual perennials.
Home Depot	Devon and McCormick, Oakton east of McCormick	They also have some relatively inexpensive perennials in small pots. Make friends with a salesperson to find out what days they receive shipments of new plants.
Johnny’s Selected Seeds	http://www.johnnyseeds.com/	Especially know for their vegetable seeds, especially heirloom varieties. Lots of flower seeds, too. Located in Maine.
Jung	http://www.jungseed.com/	Seeds, plants, bulbs, supplies, roses, trees, shrubs and supplies. They’re located in Wisconsin, so their catalog focuses on plants that will do well in our climate (and is short on all those tempting plants we drool over, but that that aren’t hardy here!).
Meinke’s	5803 W. Touhy, Niles	Good selection, including a very large selection of tomatoes, including some heirlooms
Park Seeds	www.ParkSeed.com	Wide variety of seeds. Catalog has a couple of pages of helpful seed-starting information, e.g., if the seeds need light or darkness to germinate.
Pesche’s	http://www.pesches.com/ 170 S. River Rd., Des Plaines (1 blk. N of Rand Rd./US 12)	What might make this worth the drive is their limited selection of inexpensive perennials ($2.00-$2.50 each) in small pots (plus lots of more expensive, bigger ones).
Pinetree	https://www.superseeds.com/	They sell small, generally inexpensive, packets of seeds, which are good if you want to experiment with different varieties without committing to larger, more expensive packages of seeds. Many varieties of vegetables and herbs. They stock some heirloom seeds, as well as plants, bulbs and supplies.
Roots and Rhizomes	http://www.rootsrhizomes.com/	Perennials, hostas, daylilies, iris, generally good prices. Located in Wisconsin, sibling of Jung Seeds.
Select Seeds	http://www.selectseeds.com/	Lots of heirloom varieties and an especially good selection of poppies. Also plants and bulbs.
Stokes	http://www.stokeseeds.com/cgi-bin/StokesSeeds.storefront	They sell seeds in packets and by the half-ounce or ounce. They also have seed-starting supplies. Their seed-starting information is particularly detailed.
Thompson and Morgan	http://www.thompson-morgan.com/	Huge selection, including some very rare seeds. Decent seed-starting information in their planting guide. They are a British company with a branch in the U.S.
Totally Tomatoes	http://www.totallytomato.com/	Plants and seeds. Despite the name, they sell pepper seeds and plants, too. The widest variety of tomato seeds imaginable.
Urhausen’s	http://www.urhausengreenhouses.com/ 6973 East Prairie, Lincolnwood (just east of Crawford)	Huge selection of seedlings grown in their greenhouse, including some heirloom tomatoes.
Wayside Gardens	www.waysidegardens.com	Lots of perennials and shrubs, generally will not be your least expensive source. They’re located in South Carolina, so their catalog includes lots of things we can’t grow in our Zone 5 climate. Watch those zone designations in the catalog!
White Flower Farm	www.whiteflowerfarm.com	Gorgeous catalog, pricey plants. The plant descriptions are excellent, with many suggestions for plants that mix well with one another in the garden or in containers. Their gardens in Litchfield, CT are a sight to behold.
Gilbert Wild & Son	http://www.gilberthwild.com/	Many varieties of irises, daylilies, and peonies. Good prices, especially during their specials.

Seed Starting with Ruta

Sat, 28 Feb 2009 22:49:00 -0500

Ruta Lietuvninkas February 24, 2009
Seed Starting Indoors

PRIOR TO MARCH
Planning:

**Identify location for germinating
**Identify location for growing on under lights
**Identify max quantity of seed trays that will fit under lights
**Select seeds based on:
    -Number of seed trays
    -Garden plan
    -Germination difficulty
    -Direct sowing
    -Other plant objectives

Purchasing:
**Seeds
**Seed trays – replacement parts
**Germinating/seed starting mix
**Plant food
**Light fixtures/bulbs
**Racks for lights, supplies to build rack, supplies to hang lights
**Heating mat, optional
**Electric timer, optional
**Other electrical items (power strips, extension cords, cube taps, etc.),
optional
**Oscillating fan, optional

AFTER MARCH
**Prep and Sowing
**Germination
    -Document germination times for future reference
    -70 – 80 degrees
**Growing on
    -Temperature – too warm results in leggy plants
    -Watering – don’t allow plants to dry out, bottom water
    -Light – 14-16 hours/day, no more than 3” away for young seedlings
    -Feeding – essential, especially if not transplanting
    -Thinning – cut with small scissors
    -Transplanting – do you have the space under the lights?
    -Fan – for stronger stems
**Hardening off
**Planting !!

October Plant Forum

Wed, 29 Oct 2008 17:50:00 -0400

Plant Forum

Meeting: October 29, 2008 / Bee Panel

Plants Introduced: 7

Miscanthus sinensis, Miscanthus Grass

Cotinnus coggygria, Smoke Tree, see Aug text

Persicaria virginiana, Painter’s Pallette

Rhus typhina ‘Bailtiger’, Tiger Eyes Sumac

Elymus magellanicus, Blue Wheatgrass

Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Boston Ivy

Amaranthus cruentus, Red Amaranth, Polish Amaranth

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Common Name: Miscanthus Grass

Scientific Name: Miscanthus sinensis

Grown in Rogers Park? Yes

Habit: herbaceous perrenial

Hardy: yes

Month(s) in bloom: Oct.-Nov.

Time to prune: early to late winter

Height: 4'-7'

Cultural notes & comments:

Easy to grow. The end of the season height will depend on watering. Miscanthus can survive in dry conditions but will not be more than 3-4’ with narrow, folded leaves. Frequent watering can lead to floppy plants at the end of the season too. Foliage left through the winter for interest is a matter of taste. Roots and stems are below ground and pruning can be done at ground level.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miscanthus_sinensis

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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Common Name: Painter's Pallette

Scientific Name:Persicaria virginiana (Tovara virginiana)

Grown in Rogers Park? Yes

Habit: groundcover

Hardy: Yes

Month(s) in bloom: summer thru fall

Time to prune: as needed

Height: 1-2 1/2'

Cultural notes & comments:

Seeds about easily but not quite invasive. Easy to grow. Shade. Regular watering and fertilizing is helpful for good looking plantings though it can take dryier conditions onces established. Red berries are held above foliage and can be cut to reduce seedlings.

http://www.arhomeandgarden.org/plantoftheweek/articles/painters_palette.htm

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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Common Name: Tiger Eyes Sumac

Scientific Name: Rhus typhina 'Bailtiger'

Grown in Rogers Park? yes

Habit: shrub

Hardy: Yes, zone 4

Month(s) in bloom: summer

Time to prune: late winter

Height: 6'

Cultural notes & comments:

This is a nice compact version of more common sumacs. They can be very drought tolerant once established and often turn dramatic yellows, oranges and reds in the fall. The feathery texture is very distinctive in the landscape

http://www.mobot.org/GARDENINGHELP/PLANTFINDER/plant.asp?code=C861

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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Common Name: Blue wheatgrass

Scientific Name: Elmus magellanicus

Grown in Rogers Park? yes

Habit: herbaceous perrenial

Hardy: Yes

Month(s) in bloom: May

Time to prune: winter

Height: 1-2'

Cultural notes & comments:

Tolerant of many conditions but probably does best in full sun with average watering. Fertilize regularly for consistent new growth which shows off the bright, silvery blue foliage well. Often best used mixed with other low-mid-sized plants because it forms a looser clump by itself.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.bluestem.ca/images/elymus-magellanicus6.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.bluestem.ca/elymus-magellanicus.htm&h=350&w=265&sz=31&hl=en&start=1&um=1&usg=__MCPb7hah_Lo8mvBuMbqDyPd1_rk=&tbnid=zOT9fW7HtDrqZM:&tbnh=120&tbnw=91&prev=/images%3Fq%3DElymus%2Bmagellanicus%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26rls%3Den%26sa%3DN

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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Common Name: Boston Ivy

Scientific Name: Parthenocissus tricuspidata

Grown in Rogers Park? yes

Habit: vine

Hardy: Yes

Month(s) in bloom: summer

Time to prune: anytime

Height: Usually limited by the building's height.

Cultural notes & comments:

This vine is found nearly on every street in Chicago. The maple-like leaf shape is distinctive and the fall colors are quite good. Roots often grow in cracks next to the foundation and can create an entry point for water. Modified tendrils have ‘holdfasts’ which anchor the vine on the wall to a point. Should significant growth weigh a vine down, large sheets can detach at once. Holdfasts do not penetrate into a surface but often attached when stems are pulled away.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boston_ivy

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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Common Name: Red Amaranth, Polish Amaranth

Scientific Name: Amaranthus cruentus

Grown in Rogers Park? Yes

Habit: annual

Hardy: no

Month(s) in bloom: summer-fall

Time to prune: anytime

August Plant Forum

Tue, 26 Aug 2008 17:48:00 -0400

Plant Forum

Meeting: August 26, 2008 John Escondari

Plants Introduced: 8

Cottinus coggygria, Smoke Tree

Physostegia venusta, Obedient Plant

Sedum seboldii, Sebold’s Sedum

Ageratina altimissima, White Snakeroot

Prunus xcisten, Purple-leaf Sand Cherry

Pruning example one

Pruning example two

Physostegia venusta, Obedient Plant

Ageratina altimissima, White Snakeroot

Sedum seboldii, Sebold’s Sedum

Prunus xcisten, Purple-leaf Sand Cherry

Pruning example one

Pruning example two

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July Plant Forum

Thu, 17 Jul 2008 17:46:00 -0400

Plant Forum

June Plant Forum

Tue, 24 Jun 2008 19:34:00 -0400

Plant Forum

Meeting: June 24, 2008 / Garden Meander

Plants Introduced: 8

  Yarrow, Achillea millefolium
  Peter's hands
  Coral Bells, Huechera
  Japanese Maple
  Purple-leaf Eastern Redbud, Cercis canadensis
  Hollyhock, Alcea
  Spiderwort, Tradescantia
  Sedum seiboldii

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Common Name:    Yarrow
Scientific Name:
Grown in Rogers Park?   Yes
Habit:      Herbaceous perennial, rhizomitous
Hardy:     Yes
Month(s) in bloom:    early/mid June
Time to prune:    deadhead, to the ground in winter
Height:
Cultural notes & comments:

The plant commonly flowers from May through June, and is a frequent component in butterfly gardens. Common yarrow is frequently found in the mildly disturbed soil of grasslands and open forests. Active growth occurs in the spring.

Common yarrow responds best to soil that is poorly developed and well drained. The plant has a relatively short life, but may be prolonged by dividing the plant every other year, and planting 12 to 18 inches apart. Common yarrow is a weedy species and can become invasive. It may suffer from mildew or root rot if not planted in well-drained soil.

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Achillea_millefolium

http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=ACMI2

Brought in by: Triangle Park / by registration tables

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Common Name:    Peter's hands, deadheading onions
Scientific Name:
Grown in Rogers Park?   Yes
Habit:      bulb
Hardy:     Yes
Month(s) in bloom:    mid June
Time to prune:    deadhead / harvest in?
Height:     up to 36
Cultural notes & comments:

References:

Brought in by: Community Gardens by Triangle Park

Common Name:    Coral Bells
Scientific Name:    Huechera sanguinea
Grown in Rogers Park?   Yes
Habit:      Herbaceous perennial
Hardy:     Yes
Month(s) in bloom:    mid June
Time to prune:    deadhead as needed, leaf removal after hard frost?
Height:     flowers 30, leaves 10
Cultural notes & comments:

References:

Brought in by: Mike & Mary Connolly, Juneway Terrace

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Common Name:    Japanese Maple
Scientific Name:    Acer japonicum
Grown in Rogers Park?   Yes
Habit:      small tree
Hardy:     Yes
Month(s) in bloom:    April, fruiting May/June
Time to prune:
Height:
Cultural notes & comments:

References:

Brought in by: Beata Welsh and David Phillips / Juneway Terrace

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Common Name:    Purple-leafed Eastern Redbud
Scientific Name:    Cercis canadensis cv
Grown in Rogers Park?   Yes
Habit:      Tree
Hardy:     Yes
Month(s) in bloom:    early May
Time to prune:    small stems anytime, large pruning, Jan/Feb
Height:
Cultural notes & comments:

References:

Brought in by: Sharon Kozak and Larry Tobiasz / Juneway Terrace

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Common Name:    Hollyhock
Scientific Name:    Alcea
Grown in Rogers Park?   Yes
Habit:      Herbaceous perennial
Hardy:     Yes
Month(s) in bloom:    late June
Time to prune:    deadhead as needed, to ground in early winter
Height:     3' to 6'
Cultural notes & comments:

References:

Brought in by: Katy Dolan and Earl Manesky / Juneway Terrace

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Common Name:    Spiderwort
Scientific Name:    Tradescantia andersonii
Grown in Rogers Park?   Yes
Habit:      Herbaceous perennial
Hardy:     Yes
Month(s) in bloom:    mid/late June
Time to prune:    deadhead as needed, to ground in early winter
Height:
Cultural notes & comments:

References:

Brought in by: Dennis LoBue & Darwin Corrin / Juneway Terrace

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Common Name:    Sedum
Scientific Name:    Sedum seiboldii
Grown in Rogers Park?   Yes
Habit:      Herbaceous perennial
Hardy:     Yes
Month(s) in bloom:
Time to prune:
Height:
Cultural notes & comments:

References:

Brought in by: 1500 Juneway Terrace

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Growing Dwarf Fruit Trees

Tue, 27 May 2008 19:44:00 -0400

MIDFEX: MIDWEST FRUIT EXPLORERS
WHAT DOES "DWARF TREE" MEAN?

Many mail order catalogs and local nurseries sell fruit trees that are labeled as "dwarf," but sometimes beginners in fruit growing are disappointed and inconvenienced when their so-called dwarf apple tree grows two stories high, after first taking 8 or 10 years to begin bearing fruit. Besides the possibility that someone simply made an error in labeling, there are two reasons why this might happen.

The first possible reason in that when the tree was planted, it may have been done in such a way that the graft union was set too close to the soil line, or even below it. When this is done, the scion, the part above the union, will sooner or later send down roots of its own. Remember that a dwarf fruit tree is created by grafting the desired variety onto a dwarfing rootstock; each variety, however, still has all the genes to make its own vigorous roots if given the opportunity, and these vigorous roots, once they establish themselves in the ground, will override the roots of the dwarfing stock and (in the case of apple and pear) go on to produce a standard tree, 20 feet high and nearly as wide across, the kind that the kids can use for a tree house, and which will produce many bushels of fruit. Most homeowners, though, consider this too much of a good thing.

The second possible reason is that there is no real definition of "dwarf." The seller was not deliberately misleading; it's just that a "dwarf tree" is any tree that is smaller than standard -- maybe just 17 feet tall when mature instead of 20. Trees of this size should more accurately be called "semi-dwarf" or even "semi-standard." They are quite suitable for the commercial orchardist who wants a compromise between maximum yield per acre and the easier pruning, spraying, and picking of a tree that is only 2/3 or ¾ as big as a standard tree, but for the backyard hobbyist, a fully dwarfed tree, one which is mature at 5 to 10 feet, is generally the most desirable. There are different rootstocks available for producing different-size trees according to the needs of the grower, although it should be noted that it is only in the case of apples that there is the fullest range of dwarfing rootstocks.

WHY ARE FRUIT TREES GRAFTED?

The most important reason is because this is a sure way to propagate the variety we want from tree to tree. If you were to eat a piece of fruit, a Bartlett pear, let's say, and plant the seeds from it, each seed would grow into a pear tree as expected, and each tree would eventually bloom and produce pears. But just as ten daughters can all be quite different from their mother, each daughter tree would bear pears that have only a family resemblance to the Bartlett pear you ate, and to the other trees' pears as well. Each daughter tree may even have growth habit or bark color different from its mother and its sisters. In order to be sure of having real Bartlett pears, a clone must be made; we must take a piece of a Bartlett tree (this piece is called a "scion") and graft it onto some other pear tree, where it will "do its own thing" and produce Bartlett pears. Nearly all woody plants of named varieties (Elberta peach, Peace rose) are propagated in this way, not by seeds.

Most people know that one can graft scions of 5 different varieties onto 5 different branches of an existing tree of the same species (apple on apple, pear on pear, etc.), thus making a 5-in-1 curiosity, but generally, and always in commercial orchards, each tree is of a single variety, the scion having been grafted onto the lowest few inches of the trunk of a one-year-old tree of the same species, just above the roots. This baby tree of pencil diameter, which receives the scion and has its top cut off and discarded, is called a rootstock, and it and the scion remain together all their lives. (Of course, it is also possible to make a clone by taking cuttings of the desired variety and inducing them to form their own roots, but with fruit trees this is a lengthy process, and even then the percentage of successes is not high. Moreover, rootstocks can be chosen that are able to confer advantages to the final tree, as we will explain later.)

The scion, as we said, is a piece of the variety whose fruit we want. What is a rootstock? An apple rootstalk, for example, is simply another variety of apple tree, the variety often indicated by a code like M-26 or P-22, which originally grew from a seed somewhere, was found to have something desirable as far as its roots were concerned, and is now itself propagated by a specialized nursery. This tree is entirely capable of living on its own; if nothing were ever grafted onto it, it would grow into an apple tree, bloom, and bear apples, although there is little chance that its apples would be of very good quality. But we are not interested in its more or less inferior fruit; we choose a particular variety of rootstock only for its roots, which have one or more attributes that the roots of the scion variety may lack, such as disease resistance, ability to tolerate certain adverse soil or climate conditions, or tendency to cause the resulting grafted tree to mature sooner and be smaller and earlier-bearing than standard trees (dwarfing rootstock). Thus we want the rootstock only for what its roots can do, and the scion only for the fruit that its branches and leaves will produce. When the two are joined, we have a tree more desirable for our needs than either would be if growing on its own.

PLANTS FOR KITCHEN GARDENS

Rhubarb

Undemanding -- requires essentially no care at all, needs watering only in the very driest of weeks. Is at its best when in sun, but even in mostly shade it is reasonably productive. A perennial that dies to the ground in the winter and comes back in spring. The leaf stalks (petioles) are broken off from the base of the plant, the leaves themselves are discarded, and the petioles are cut up and used in sauces, breads, jams, pies.

Other values: showy flowers (although petiole production is better if flowers are removed), use as a ground cover.

Suggested varieties: If in the foreground, use the red-stemmed varieties such as Valentine. Otherwise they are all the same for productiveness, flavor, and flowers.

Where and how to plant: At its best when in sun, but even in mostly shade it is reasonably productive. Plant in good or even not-so-good soil, 2 to 3 feet apart.
Elderberry

A shrub which takes care of itself, usually bearing when only 2 years old, eventually reaching the height and spread of a large lilac bush if not pruned (by cutting off the oldest canes at the ground in spring). Can be kept as an informal individual or allowed to form into an irregular clone from the base. The berries are unimpressive if eaten fresh, but make an excellent jelly with a flavor between blackberry and Concord grape. You do have to protect the berries from birds.

Other values: showy flowers, attractive foliage, use as a head-high ground cover for the edges of woody and uncultivated places, provide nesting sites and food for birds.

Suggested varieties: Nurseries offer Nova, York, Johns, etc. My experience is with the wild plants which arise from seeds dropped by birds along fencerows and transitional areas, and these have given me very satisfactory crops. For pollination two different named varieties or two wild seedlings or one of each is required.

Where and how to plant: Anywhere but complete shade. Will even tolerate competition from tree roots.

Raspberry

Stay with the red raspberry (which includes gold); the black are not reliably hardy here. Not at all difficult to care for, just so you understand the system of pruning each type needs (see below), and do it at the right time. Self-pollinating. No pest in the usual sense, but when the crop is ripening, it often needs protection from birds, and in some years, yellow-jackets and Japanese beetles. The fruit itself needs no introduction.

Other values: The neighbors will grow tired of all your tomatoes and zucchini, but They never get enough raspberries (not that you do either).

Suggested varieties: Maincrop*: Latham, Canby, Titan; Doublebearer#: Heritage, Autumn Bliss.

Where and how to plant: In sun. When first planting, put them 2 feet apart. After that they form runners and always seem to end up as a hedgerow anyway, which should be kept no more than 3 feet wide. But even a single plant is worthwhile.
Principles of Pruning Red Raspberries

Maincrop*: Sends up new canes from the ground in the spring. These canes do not bloom this first year. In early summer of the second year they will bloom and bear, then die. Meanwhile during the second year, new canes are arising from the ground to carry the third year's crop. That is, it is always last year's canes that have the fruit, and each cane lives exactly 2 years. So the only pruning needed is a one-time removal of the dead canes after their summer harvest is over and they are turning brown. It is also OK to cut the tops of the growing canes to 5 or 6 feet if they are becoming too tall and floppy.

Doublebearer#: (Also called everbearer, but this is not really correct.) Last year's canes bloom and bear in early summer, then die, just like the maincrop varieties. But with this type, the new canes that have arisen this year (primocanes) bloom in their first August and bear fruit until frost. They do not die after this. They winter over to become the bearers of next year's crop before they die and need to be removed. Thus, there are two crops a year.

However, it is a common practice when growing doublebearers to forgo the early crop by cutting everything to a foot or lower sometime between November and March, and harvesting only the crops produced from the primocanes in August and September. This is the simplest pruning there is, and gives the added advantage of allowing sun to get to adjacent areas that can be used for a spring crop of salad greens before the primocanes become tall and shade them out.

Cherry

The only cherry varieties suitable for a kitchen garden rather than an orchard are genetic dwarf tart cherries. These are self-pollinating trees which mature at 6 to 8 feet high and about 6 feet wide. One of these trees, if netted to protect from birds, will furnish enough fruit for several pies each season. Also fine for all other cherry uses.

Other values: Very showy in spring bloom, has attractive bark, is even shapely as a formal or semi-formal landscape feature. And if you don't get the fruit, you will be blessed with a great show of birds.

Suggested varieties: Northstar, Meteor. (I prefer the former for eating fresh.)
Where and how to plant: In sun or mostly sun. These little trees are pretty enough to put right in front of the house.

Ribes

This is the genus of currants (both red and black), and of gooseberries.
Gooseberry: An underrated fruit for kitchen gardens. These are shrubs which mature as dense 4-foot bushes, but they can be trained to a staked standard. Very forgiving of incorrect pruning and other grower errors. The fruit is borne in midsummer as a single crop. You can do anything with the fruit that you can do with a tart cherry, but gooseberries have a flavor all their own. Birds seem to leave them alone, but in certain summers the yellow-jackets will pierce the skin and suck out the juice. Self-pollinating.

Other values: Beautiful long-lasting autumn foliage color.

Suggested varieties: More varieties keep coming on the market. I have grown Pixwell, Poorman, and Welcome. Of the three, I like Welcome the best. It doesn't give as many berries, but they are larger, sweeter, and more full of flavor than the other two.

Where and how to plant: These do not need full sun; in fact, on the hottest days there can even be some sun damage to the berries, so a partially sunny location is probably best. Whether grown bushy from the ground or as standards, 3-foot spacing is about right.

Red Currant

A more upright, somewhat taller, less dense shrub than gooseberry. Self-pollinating. The copious crop of bright read berries borne in midsummer needs to be netted to protect it from birds, but this is not a big job. The berries are used to make a tart jelly, or a glaze for pastries and roasts, sometimes mixed with apple.

Other values: Attractive fall foliage, as with gooseberries.

Suggested varieties: Redlak, the old standby, and Cherry. Where and how to plant: These do need sun to have a heavy crop, but even with some shade they will still produce respectably. Plant them about 3 feet apart.

Black currant

These have been made available in the U.S. only recently. They are the cassis of France. Growth habit like red currant. Self-pollinating. The berries should be left on the bush until fully ripe, black and soft, and then you'll either love their strong musky flavor or hate it. (I love it.) I haven't explored all their uses, but anything made with peach or strawberry takes on a new and exotic flavor if 10 to 20% black currents are added. They are also good fresh on a bowl of Wheaties. Be the first on your block to grow these.

Other values: Attractive fall foliage.

Suggested varieties: As with gooseberries, new varieties keep coming on the market. Try Black September or Prince Consort.

How and where to plant: As for red currant.

Apple

With the introduction of the full-dwarfing rootstocks, it is now possible to have normal-sized apples of any variety on a tree which, when mature, occupies no more than a tomato plant and can be kept pruned to 5 feet tall; slightly less dwarfing rootstocks can give you your favorite varieties on 7-to-9 foot trees planted 7 or 8 feet apart. These trees will not produce bushels of apples, but will certainly give dozens of apples if proper insect control measures are applied, and have the added advantage of often bearing as soon as three years of age. The trees can also be trained as espaliers (not as difficult as it appears), which can beautify any wall or fence and provide a maximum of fruit in a minimum space. An apple tree needs a pollinator of another variety, but nearby flowering crabapples will serve if you have only one fruiting tree.

Other values: Spring blossoms, bare trees have interesting appearance in winter, espaliers are a striking garden feature.

Suggested varieties: There are hundreds available. Very good for home gardens (in order of ripening) are Mantet, Prima, Wealthy, Mutzu. The crabapple Dolgo has especially beautiful bright red fruit, is immune to scab fungus, and makes marvelous jelly. Choose trees grafted onto rootstocks M27 for the most dwarfing. M26 or Bud-9 for a semi-dwarf.

Where and how to plant: In sun or mostly sun, but if espaliered, will bear well on an east- or west-facing wall.

Pear

There are no rootstocks for pears which will reliably dwarf the tree as much as can be done for apples; therefore with their rather demanding pruning requirements, pear trees, unless esplaniered, are probably suitable only for larger kitchen gardens, mini-orchards, or as a small shade tree. Some varieties of both Asian (crunchy) and European (pear-shaped) pears are partly self-pollinating, but another tree of a different variety is always advisable. Requires less insect control than apples.

Other values: Shiny green foliage is attractive in summer, fall color is pretty too. Blossoming and winter appearance as for apples. And nothing compliments a wall or fence better than an espaliered semi-dwarf pear tree displaying its fruit.

Suggested varieties: European (as with apples, there are hundreds available): Seckel (highly recommended), Kieffer (the old reliable canning pear), Beierschmidt, Colette. Asian (in order of ripening): Hosui, Chojuro, Kikisui. Look for rootstalks OHxF 333 or OHxF 513, which are semi-dwarfing, not fully dwarfing, but are hardy and reliable.
Where and how to plant: As for apples.

And last, but emphatically not least, here are 3 more underappreciated fruits: Check them out. . .

1. Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) Usually grown just for its white spring blooms, much like a small flowering crabapple (often bushy), but the berries are juicy and splendid; they make good jam and pies, and are very tasty when dried, but there is no berry any better to pick and eat fresh.

2. Cornelian cherry (Cornus mas) Not a cherry at all, but a species of dogwood, usually grown as a shrub or small tree only for its very early copious tiny yellow flowers and shiny dark green foliage, and the shiny red berries are admired for their appearance. However, the berries can be made into a very tart jelly good for relish on meats, and also give a lot of added zip to peach recipes.

3. Quince. [NOTE: There is often confusion here. We are talking about the true quince (Cydonia), not the flowering or Japanese quince (Chaenomeles).] A rather ungainly small tree or large shrub, but trouble free. The large, very pale pink blooms follow apple blossom time. The large fruit has many uses for jelly, compote, sauce, candy, sherbet, baked like apples, and more - anything but eating out of hand. When they ask me, What does a quince taste like?, I reply, It tastes like a quince.

SOURCES

Note: There are very many more good sources than these. This is just a starter list.
Park Seed Co.                Jung Seed Co.
1 Parkton Ave.                335 S. High St.
Greenwood, SC 29647    Randolph, WI 53957
(800)845-3369                (800) 247-5864

Raintree Nursery             Stark Brothers
391 Butts Rd.                  P.O. Box 1800
Morton WA 98356           Louisiana MO 63353
(360)496-6400                (800) 325-4180

www.raintreenursery.com www.starbros.com

Miller Nursery                   Forestfarm
5060 W. Lake Rd.            900 Tetherow Road
Canandaigua NY 14424    Williams OR 97544
(800) 836-9630                (541) 836-7269
www.millernurseries.com/    www.forestfarm.com

Cummins Nursery
18 Glass Factory Bay Rd.
Geneva NY 14456
(315) 789-7083

The following are also often available by taking divisions of a neighbor's plant and bringing it home to transplant: Rhubarb, elderberry, raspberry, gooseberry, currant.

May Plant Forum

Mon, 26 May 2008 17:43:00 -0400

Plant Forum

Meeting: May 20, 2008 Gale Greenhouse

Plants: 4

Annual Vinca, Catharanthuus rosea

Canna, Canna xhybrida

Coleus, Taraxacum officinale

Bizzy Lizzy, Impatiens walleriana

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Common Name: Busy Lizzie

Scientific Name: Impatiens walereanna

Grown in Rogers Park? Yes

Habit: annual

Hardy: No

Month(s) in bloom: spring through fall

Time to prune: cut back as needed

Height: dwarf ? 6?-12?, regular 18?-30?

Cultural notes & comments:

A traditional annual used because it grows well in most conditions and is a prolific bloomer. Shade to morning sun and keep moist. Preplanting with a phosphorus fertilizer will assist in flowering as well regular feeding through the growing season. Available in many colors and bicolors as well. Clearly a favorite for practical and aesthetic concerns.

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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Common Name: Coleus

Scientific Name: Solenostemon scutellarioides

Grown in Rogers Park? Yes

Habit: annual

Hardy: No

Month(s) in bloom: summer & fall but grown for foliage

Time to prune: as desired, flowers usually removed

Height: dwarf to 12?, regular up to 24?

Cultural notes & comments:

As opposed to impatiens this would NOT be a plant to use a phosphorus fertilizer with when planting. Phorsphorus will help induce better flowering and this is not typically desired with Coleus as the foliage is considered the most attractive feature. Many leaf colors, variegations, shapes and sizes are available with outstanding landscape uses. Grown more in shady locations Coleus likes regular watering and consistent fertilizing. As a member of the Mint Family, coleus has the identifying trait of truly square stems.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coleus

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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Common Name: Red-leaf Canna

Scientific Name: Canna xhybrida cv?

Grown in Rogers Park? Yes

Habit: Herbaceous perennial

Hardy: No

Month(s) in bloom: summer through fall

Time to prune: October

Height: dwarf 3?-4?, regular 5?-7?

Cultural notes & comments:

Without a identifying tag knowing the name of a variety takes a great deal of experience as there are many cultivar names available now. The word ?culti-var? is a combination of the two words ?cultivated? and ?variety? which signifies this is a plant not found in the wild and selected for some outstanding characteristic(s). Newer cultivars may be under patent still but restrictions on propagation apply only to wholesale and retail would-be propagators.

Cannas enjoy lots of watering and can be aquatic. However, you?ll find if grown drier, the foliage will be more tightly held to the stalk and the height will be considerably reduced. As cannas can be floppy (especially with older, taller cultivars) this can be a helpful way to grow your plant. Should you experience a great deal of one time insect damage, up your fertilizer and water to quickly grow new foliage.

Cannas are typically dug in Oct/Nov, stalks removed and roots stored in a cool, dry, non-freezing place through the winter.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canna_(plant)

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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Common Name: Annual Vinca, Madagascar Periwinkle

Scientific Name: Catharanthus rosea

Grown in Rogers Park? Yes

Habit: Annual

Hardy: Yes

Month(s) in bloom: spring through fall

Time to prune: as desired

Height: 12?-18?

Cultural notes & comments:

Often Annual Vinca is referred to as the Impatiens of the sun. The landscape use is nearly equivalent though the color range is more limited: white, pink, reddish, lavender and purple. Gardeners sometimes observe rot/dieback in patchy locations and a cause is not easily identified. One common problem lies in how these annuals are planted. They are sensitive to the level at which the root and stem are planted. Should the stem become covered with soil, bacterial and fungal pathogens are likely to enter and rot the plant.

Otherwise, Annual Vinca is very easy to grow, enjoys hot/sunny garden locations and responds well to regular feeding. Leaves should be dark green and glossy as a good indicator of proper fertilizing.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosy_Periwinkle

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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April Plant Forum

Tue, 29 Apr 2008 19:17:00 -0400

Plant Forum

Meeting: April 29, 2008

Plants Introduced: 8

Burning Bush, Euonymus alatus
  Unknown Pine, Pinus sp?,
  Dandelion, Taraxacum officinale
  Pansy 'Pandoras Mix', Viola tricolor 'Pandoras Mix'
  Weeping Willow, Salix × sepulcralis
  Geranium, Pelargonium (zonal),
  Amaryllis, Hippeastrum xhybrida
  Jacob's Ladder, Polemonium

1. Burning Bush, Euonymus alatus
  Unknown Pine, Pinus sp,
  Dandelion, Taraxacum officinale
  Pansy 'Pandoras Mix', Viola tricolor 'Pandoras Mix'
  Weeping Willow, Salix × sepulcralis
  Geranium, Pelargonium (zonal),
  Amaryllis, Hippeastrum xhybrida
  Jacob's Ladder, Polemonium (pictured above)

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Common Name:    Burning Bush
Scientific Name:    Euonymus alatus
Grown in Rogers Park?   Yes
Habit:      Shrub, deciduous
Hardy:      Yes
Month(s) in bloom:    spring over a long period
Time to prune:     Lightly as needed, fall/winter
Height:     8' and often wider
Cultural notes & comments:

Considered to be an invasive species.
Stems are typically square and display 'corky wings' which are cork forming bark cells growing in abundance.
Vibrant red fall color and a traditional landscape favorite.

References:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Euonymus_alatus
http://www.invasive.org/eastern/species/3023.html

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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2. Common Name:    Red Pine, Norway Pine
Scientific Name:    Pinus resinosa
Grown in Rogers Park?   Yes
Habit:      Tree, evergreen
Hardy:      Yes
Month(s) in bloom:    April
Time to prune:     February/March, also candle pruning in April
Height:     young at 20', 75-105'
Cultural notes & comments:

Cutting from lakefront beach near tennis courts and sand dune restoration area
Species unknown at time of cutting. Looks similar to White Pine but does not have 5 needles in a fascicle but 2. This is a long needle pine.

It is one of the most extensively planted species in the northern United States and Canada.

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norway_Pine
http://www.borealforest.org/trees/tree9.htm

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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3. Common Name:    Dandelion
Scientific Name:    Taraxacum officinale
Grown in Rogers Park?   yes
Habit:      herbaceous perennial
Hardy:      yes
Month(s) in bloom:    heaviest in spring but throughout summer and fall
Time to prune:     tolerates ground level cutting as herb and weed
Height:     leaves 1-8" high and often wider
Cultural notes & comments:

"While the dandelion is considered a weed by many gardeners and lawn owners, the plant does have several culinary uses, and the specific name officinalis refers to its value as a medicinal herb. Dandelions are grown commercially on a small scale as a leaf vegetable. The leaves (called dandelion greens) can be eaten cooked or raw in various forms, such as in soup or salad. They are probably closest in character to mustard greens. Usually the young leaves and unopened buds are eaten raw in salads, while older leaves are cooked. Raw leaves have a slightly bitter taste. Dandelion salad is often accompanied with hard boiled eggs. The leaves are high in vitamin A, vitamin C and iron, carrying more iron and calcium than spinach."

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dandelion

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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4. Common Name:    Pansy
Scientific Name:    Viola tricolor 'Pandoras Mix'
Grown in Rogers Park?   no, purchased at Gesthemane
Habit:      cool season annual
Hardy:      no, can take a light frost, some snow and grow well in early spring
Month(s) in bloom:    April to June
Time to prune:     deadhead for increased flowering and remove when finished
Height:     6-8"
Cultural notes & comments:

Flowers edible. Often used in salads, plate decoration and may be frozen in ice for effect.

Fertilize consistently for maximum flowering.

"The name pansy is derived from the French word pensée meaning "thought", and was so named because the flower resembles a human face; in August it nods forward as if deep in thought. Because of this the pansy has long been a symbol of Freethought[1] and has been used in the literature of the American Secular Union. Humanists use it too, as the pansy's current appearance was developed from the Heartsease by two centuries of intentional crossbreeding of wild plant hybrids. "

One of the many annuals that is sensitive to being planted too deeply. Should the soil cover the crown of the plant, the stems are susceptible to rot.

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pansy
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viola_tricolor

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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5. Common Name:    Weeping Willow
Scientific Name:    Salix × sepulcralis
Grown in Rogers Park?   yes, on the lake front in a group of three by the pier
Habit:      tree, deciduous
Hardy:      yes
Month(s) in bloom:    April/May, called catkins
Time to prune:     late winter, Feb/Mar
Height:     very large, often wider than tall
Cultural notes & comments:

As an urban tree, the willow is problematic due to its large size and aggressive root system. Willow can easily grow into sewer and water lines seeking additional water.

"Willows are very cross-fertile and numerous hybrids occur, both naturally and in cultivation. A well known example is the weeping willow (Salix × sepulcralis), very widely planted as an ornamental tree, which is a hybrid of a Chinese species and a European species ? Peking willow and white willow."

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willow

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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6. Common Name:    Zonal Geranium, Geranium
Scientific Name:    Pelargonium ×hortorum,
Grown in Rogers Park?   yes, cutting rooted in water during the winter
Habit:      herbaceous perennial
Hardy:      no
Month(s) in bloom:    all, heaviest in late spring, summer
Time to prune:     as necessary, often becomes lanky but re-branches easily
Height:     up to 3-4'
Cultural notes & comments:

Zonal varieties, also known as P. ×hortorum, are mainly derived from P. zonale and P. inquinans.

Many cultivars are in the commercial trade with a wide range of flower color, leaf shape and size.

Plants that are deficient in nitrogen will lose many of their lower leaves. Consistent low levels of nitrogen fertilizing will yield a much improved vigorous and leafy specimen.

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pelargonium

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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7. Common Name:    Amaryllis
Scientific Name:    Hippeastrum xhybrida
Grown in Rogers Park?   yes, indoor during the winter
Habit:      bulb, outside during warm months in partial sun/shade
Hardy:      no
Month(s) in bloom:    any time of year, bulbs can be forced after dormancy
Time to prune:     deadhead as needed, yellowing leaves can support the formation of new bulbs until much of their nitrogen has been depleted
Height:     leaves up to 3'
Cultural notes & comments:

"Hippeastrum is a popular bulb flower for indoor growing. The bulb is tender and should not be exposed to frost, but is otherwise easy to grow, with large rewards for small efforts, especially those that bloom inside during the winter months. The very large, decorative flowers can also be grown outside in temperate areas. "

New bulb offsets are produced at the base of a bulb and can be divided with sufficient root growth and size. Typically, the larger the bulb, the bigger and more numerous will be the flowers. Plants grown in more sunlight will be shorter and sturdier.

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hippeastrum

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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8. Common Name:    Jacob's Ladder
Scientific Name:    Polemonium sp. (caeruleum ?)
Grown in Rogers Park?   Yes, from Ann Whelan's yard
Habit:      herbaceous perennial
Hardy:      yes
Month(s) in bloom:    May/June
Time to prune:     remove spent leaves in late summer
Height:     1-2'
Cultural notes & comments:

Illinois native

Easy to grow in full sun to partial shade with abundant pale, blue flowers. Likes being moist and has a mounding habit. Attracts butterflies and is commonly used as an understory, bedding and/or border plant.

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polemonium
http://www.bestplants.org/plantdetail.pl?ScientificName=Polemonium%20caeruleum

Brought in by: Brian Houck

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